Antarctica-Patagonia

25.12.2010

BRUCK-MUNICH-MADRID-BUENOS AIRES

Early in the morning at 03:00 we leave for Munich in wintry conditions.
Departure from Munich with Iberia at 07:50 to Madrid.
In Madrid, after a short stay of 1.5 hours, onward flight to Buenos Aires (flight time 12 h).
Overnight at the Hotel Ayres de Recoleta Plaza in the center of the city.
Temperature 30° Celsius.
Dinner at an excellent steakhouse (La Lorenza).

26.12.2010

BUENOS AIRES – USHUAIA

Short city tour and transfer to the Jorge Newbery Airport directly on the Rio Plata.
Departure with Austral Airways a subsidiary of Aerolinas Argentinas to Ushuaia. Arrival in Ushuaia after about 3.5 hours flight time.
Surprise on arrival. We were rebooked from Hotel Hosteria Via Rondine to Hotel Tolkeynes. Since we didn’t know either hotel, we didn’t care.
Only the address of the new hotel had to be sent to the Antartic Ship company and everything was ok. This was kindly done by the Hotel Via Rondine.
After an evening stroll around town in Ushuaia and a great dinner at Freddy’s crab restaurant, we headed off to rest.

27.12.2010

USHUAIA TREKKING TOUR

Today we had a window day, which we used for a hike into the mountains around Ushuaia. The destination was the 1,300 m high Glacier Marcial. A small ski resort in a still undeveloped landscape.
Ascent about 2 hours. Beautiful view of the port city. Lots of wet snow and changeable weather. Rustic cottage but no hunting tea.
The testing of the equipment worked well. We are prepared for trekking in Patagonia.
Tomorrow we will go on the ship. We are already quite excited.

28.12.2010

The Antarctic adventure begins:

After breakfast we decided to walk into town, right along the Beagle Channel. In the port of Usuaiha we could already see our expedition ship. It was the smallest of all the ships on the quay. A queasy feeling came over us about this. On this little ship we should spend the next days?!
We still had some time to visit a museum in the city. This museum showed us the history of the indigenous people of Tierra del Fuego, called Yamanas.
At 15:40 we were picked up by the shuttle and taken to the ship. We got the booked cabins and were positively surprised about the comfortable equipment.
At 6:00 p.m. it was “cast off” and we headed down the Beagle Channel into the open sea.

29.12.2010

The DRAKE PASSAGE I

We will chalk this day up as an acclimatization day, as we were fully occupied with the transition to sea life. Getting to know the ship, crew and passengers was complicated by the first signs of seasickness.
However, the Drake Passage meant well with us; the weather was o.k. and the current accordingly calm. The crew offered lectures about the wildlife in Antarctica and we were well fed. Towards evening we had our seasickness under control and were accordingly relieved. The Drake Passage doesn’t offer much in these weather conditions, except for the odd albatross showing off its flying displays right before our eyes. The night at sea was very restless, We were not yet prepared for the swaying, although the sailors constantly emphasized that we had relatively calm conditions…. We all had an uneasy feeling in our stomachs and hoped that it would not get worse.
After lunch we felt a little better. In the afternoon, further lectures about the animal world and general rules of conduct in Antarctica were on the program. Dinner was again taken in convivial company with wine and water. This allowed us to get in the mood for the second night.

30.12.2010

Drake Passage II

The second night on the ship was already more pleasant for everyone, as we got used to the rocking.
Around noon we finally entered Antarctic waters. The water temperature of the sea here is about 1° C. So “man overboard” would be a death sentence here. The weather was slightly foggy, with scattered drizzle. Towards evening also appeared the first

31.12.2010

Antarctica Brown Bluff

On New Year’s Eve day, we were woken up nice and early in the morning. The alarm through the microphone started at 05:30. Today was a very special day. We had the chance to go on a rare excursion to the Antarctic mainland. The Weddell Sea at the southern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula is very rarely visited.
The first trip was to a penguin colony in Brown Bluff. Afterwards, we visited an Argentine government research station on Bahia Esperanza. The people from the Nordenskjöld expedition were stranded here in 1900. These people were found only in 1903 and had to endure 3 years in the Antarctic climate.
In the afternoon there was another excursion to Paulet Island. After these three exhausting landings it was the right time to prepare for the new year. A small party was organized on the ship and we celebrated until 05:00 in the morning.

01.01.2011

Antarctica Islas Gourdin

It never got dark during the night. We sailed the ship through ice floes, some of which were broken or pushed aside by the ship.
An exciting ride through the bright night of the midnight sun. Speaking of the sun, we had unfortunately not yet seen it. It was cloudy every day with snowfall or high fog.
The next morning at 08:30 we had a nice turn with the zodiacs through the icebergs of Isla Gourdin. This was a very wet affair and also quite cold. After two hours we returned to the boat and had a real appetite for lunch. The afternoon was set aside for relaxing, as another Zodiac trip was scheduled for 6:30pm. This time we went to the island of Astrolabe, which left a powerful impression with its huge glaciers and penguin colonies.
When we were lucky enough to spot whales, the day was perfect. The cold and wind did not cause us any major difficulties, as the excitement of whale watching made us forget these feelings. We arrived late for dinner on board. (9:00 p.m.).

02.01.2011

Antarctica Cape Spigot

After breakfast, three activities were on the agenda for today. These were spread throughout the day and started with a shore excursion on Cape Spigot. Here was a colony of chinstrap penguins to admire. A short steep climb to the breeding sites had to be mastered. The view was breathtaking.
Another shore excursion was scheduled for the afternoon and we visited one of the largest Gentoo penguin colonies on the Antarctic Peninsula on Cuverville Island. More than 5,000 pairs of penguins were cavorting here, spreading their scent. Not very pleasant.
The third shore excursion took us to a beautiful glacier bay (Necko Harbour). This glacial bay is known for the “calving glaciers). At any time one of the glaciers could thunder into the sea. Some small demolitions we could observe ourselves.
A short hike could be made to get close to the glacier break. A beautiful viewpoint ended this day full of excursions.

03.01.2011

Antarctica Port Lokroy 65th Parallel South

This day was the southernmost point we reached on this trip. The English station Port Lokroy is a museum of a special kind.
Here it is shown how people have adapted to the conditions. The station is currently used to observe penguins and study their behavior.
The whole thing is financed by a fund sponsored by the sale of souvenirs. On the neighboring island ” Jougla Point” you can admire some Gentoo penguin colonies and a whale skeleton. In the afternoon we went by ship through the “Neumayer Channel” in search of whales. Unfortunately, a Zodiac excursion was not possible due to the strong wind.
However, we were able to observe a few humpback whales from aboard the ship.

04.01.2011

Antarctica Deception Island and Livingstone Island

Early in the morning at 05:00 we were woken up to go on a trip to the volcano of Deception Island. Here was a whaling station in the fifties.
Due to eruptions of the volcano, which caused the station to sink into the mud, it was abandoned. Only ruins now bear witness to what was once hard work. Some whale bones and penguins have been preserved in this bay.
But the highlight came in the afternoon. We got to see some rare specimens of elephant seals on Livingstone Island. Swimming was also the order of the day in the cold Arctic Ocean.
This was a wonderful end to our expedition before we entered the infamous Drake Passage in the evening.

05.01.2011

Drake Passage III

The Drake Passage…… a horror for every sailor. We decided not to leave the cabin.
Wind force 40 knots…… speiübel… I don’t need to mention more here.

06.01.2011

Drake Passage IV

Still the Drake Passage…… Albert would like to get out of the car. But in for a penny, in for a pound. Dominik was feeling a little better.
Finally in the evening we reached the Beagle Channel. Whew we were sooo happy….
This had to be doused with Cuba Libre and Mojito. The evening ended on a conciliatory note.

07.01.2011

Beagle Channel – Ushuaia – El Calafate

The effect of the Cuba Libre is in our bones. Swell is over, but the wave still continues.
After lunch in Usuaiha, we take the plane to El Calafate, our stopover on the way to Torres del Paine.
We reside in the exquisite Mirador de Lago Hotel.
In the evening we go to the city center, where we end the day with Argentine steaks and wine at La Cocina.

08.01.2011

EL CALAFATE – TORRES DEL PAINE

Wake up call 05:30 – our transfer bus to Torres del Paine is waiting for us. The drive took us across the pampas to the Chilean border.
After completing the entry formalities, the car is changed and on unpaved road it went directly into the national park. Here a beautiful hacienda awaited us. The Hotel “Hosteria las Torres”.
Now we are at the starting point of our trekking tour.

09.01.2011

LAS TORRES – CAMPO SERON

After breakfast, we set off under clear skies for our Grand Circuit tour. The first stage takes us to Camp Seron.
After a short ascent in a northerly direction, the route continues leisurely for about 3 hours across fields of marguerites towards the first night’s camp. We still have the afternoon for a short river walk before the hut host asks us for a rustic dinner.
Two tents, provided especially for us, accommodate us for the first night.

10.01.2011

CAMPUS SERON – REFUGIO DICKSON

Strengthened by a more than sufficient breakfast, we continue to Camp Dickson.
After a first climb we reach the Scharte (321m) where gusts of wind with an estimated 90 km/h almost take us off our feet. Through swampy terrain it goes over 5 hours to the hut.
After dinner with Chilean red wine we move into our room with bunk beds.

11.01.2011

REFUGIO DICKSON – CAMPO LOS PERROS

It is not until late in the morning that we set off in the direction of Los Perros.
We cross the Rio Capeza del Indio and walk through gnarled forests before marching on the large glacial moraine towards the camp.
Camp Los Perros is extremely sparse, a small store and a communal shack are all we find. The rented tents are clean and spacious, but the night is extremely cold and there is no food for us there.
Thank God we are leaving early tomorrow.

12.01.2011

CAMPO LOS PERROS – REFUGIO GREY

At 5:30 a.m. it’s daytime wake-up time. A long stage over the Paso John Gardener lies ahead of us.
The higher we get, the more the surroundings resemble high alpine landscape, although the pass is not higher than 1216m. We fight against wind and snow and finally reach the highest point of our tour around 8:15 am.
In front of us lies the imposing, infinitely wide Glacier Grey.
From now on it’s downhill and we have to leave two camps behind us before we reach our destination Refugio Grey after 7 ½ hours.
A generously furnished hut with several rooms testifies to the stronger tourist character of the western side of the national park.
We celebrate our stage victory with Chilean wine and the national drink Pisco Sauer.

13.01.2011

REFUGIO GREY – REFUGIO PAINE GRANDE

Along Lago Grey we hike steadily uphill and finally after about 2 hours we reach the edge of the mountain, which offers a view of Lago Pehoe.
From this saddle we head directly to the lake shore, where our next stop is Paine Grande (formerly Refugio Pehoe). This is undoubtedly the main station of the park – several times a day a catamaran brings visitors to the park.
The accommodation itself resembles an oversized youth hostel without any charm.
Today, we are already noticing the effects of a strike in Chile. No more visitors come to the park, because all roads are blocked.

14.01.2011

REFUGIO PAINE GRANDE – REFUGIO LOS CUERNOS

Our royal stage begins at 9:30 and we set off towards Camp Italiano and then Camp Britanico. There we separate and Albert and Heimo climb even further to the Valle Francia viewpoint. Afterwards we meet again and march together towards the Refugio Los Cuernos. A group of condors accompanies us.
After a short rest at the wonderful pebble beach of Lago Nordenskjöld we finally reach our destination after 23 km (9 ½ hours walking time).
We are quite lonely on the road and hardly meet any trekkers.
Beautiful in this otherwise crowded area.

15.01.2011

REFUGIO LOS CUERNOS – REFUGIO CHILENO

Our trek is coming to an end.
Refugio Chileno will be our last hostel.
The path is easy and only a short hailstorm makes progress difficult.
In the afternoon, however, the sun appears again and we relax on the terrace.
Early we go to sleep, because our day starts very early tomorrow.

16.01.2011

REFUGIO CHILENO – MIRADOR TORRES – LAS TORRES

Our definitive last stage begins at 3:30.
We plan to climb to the Mirador Las Torres to view the prominent towers in the rising sunlight. Unfortunately, the weather throws a spanner in the works.
Around 5:45 we reach the viewpoint – unfortunately without Torres in sight. We wait for an hour in the cold to catch a glimpse. The clouds show themselves merciful and release two of the three towers for a moment before enveloping them completely again.
We hurry towards breakfast at Refugio Chileno and wait for the rain showers to pass through before setting off for the final descent.
Our trek ends at 12:50 p.m. at the Hotel Hosteria Las Torres, where we look forward to freshly tapped beer.

17.01.2011

HOSTERIA LAS TORRES – EL CALAFATE

Today we are really getting the effects of the strike.
At the hotel we are told that we can no longer leave the park. There are roadblocks everywhere and getting through is too dangerous. Now it’s sit and wait.
Then at 16:30 we get the redeeming message that for a short time the barrier is opened and we are allowed to leave the park. We are very happy and drive through the blockade to Argentina.
Late in the evening we arrive in El Calafate. We are happy that we do not have to change our travel plans.

18.01.2011

EL CALAFATE – BUENOS AIRES – RIO DE JANIERO

In the morning we get up early and take a cab to the airport. Departure is at 12:21. The flight leaves on time, so we get to Buenos Aires in time to catch our connecting flight.
In Buenos Aires we have to change from the domestic to the international gate. The departure to Rio de Janiero is delayed by about 1 hour.
After a successful departure, we land in Rio at 22:30. Rio de Janiero has one hour time difference from Buenos Aires.
Until we have finally completed the customs formalities, we get a cab and drive to the booked hotel Merlin Copacabana, which we reach at 23:45.
After check in we feel the need to have dinner. In Rio, this is not a problem. Here the night is turned into day.
After a leisurely meal we end this long day of travel.

19.01.2011

RIO DE JANIERO

A rest day with a visit to Copacabana and the panoramic mountain “Corcovado” is on the program.
A Brazilian highlight is planned for the evening. We visit a typical churrascaria. Here you get a really sumptuous culinary experience that you can only get in these special places. All kinds of beef.
These are served on skewers that are continuously brought to the table by waiters. You have to be really careful not to overeat. We let discipline prevail and enjoy this culinary evening. None of us had to starve that evening.

20.01.2011

RIO DE JANIERO

Today we decide to visit Copacabana and take a bath in the sea.
Today is a holiday in Brazil, and all the people are drawn to the beach.
After a long swim in the Atlantic Ocean and a walk on the beach, the heat drives us back to the pool bar. In the afternoon, the Sugarloaf Mountain is on the program. We are lucky, the weather plays along and we can take some nice pictures of the city.
A few wisps of fog make our descent from this magnificent vantage point easier.
At the middle station we see some climbers trying their luck to climb the Sugarloaf Mountain with rope and hook.
In the evening, a leisurely farewell to the city is in order, as we have to prepare for our big departure tomorrow.

21.01.2011

RIO DE JANEIRO – RETURN JOURNEY

Today is the big return day.

All travel preparations are made, last souvenirs are bought. We let ourselves be styled European again. (Barber).
At 15:00 we leave the city for the airport, with a visit to the old town and the world famous Maracana football stadium still on the agenda.
At 17:00 we arrive at the airport and fortify ourselves once again with a hearty snack.
The departure from Rio is at 21:55 with a delay of about 1 hour.

22.01.2011

Arrival Madrid – Munich

We landed happily on European soil again.

It was a fantastic adventure and we are glad to be home again healthy.

We are also happy that all the people who stayed at home are healthy and that we did not miss much. Now we will be able to go back to our daily routine full of vigor.

We would like to thank everyone who made it possible for us to make this great trip.

MANY THANKS

THE THREE ADVENTURERS

ALBERT DOMINIK and HEIMO