Pilgrimage Innsbruck-Rome Part 1

15.04.2016

Day 1 Innsbruck – Schönberg 13 km

We will start our pilgrimage at St. James’ Cathedral in Innsbruck, and meet at 12:00. Friends and relatives bid us a warm farewell, and accompany us on the first hike from Innsbruck to Schönberg.

The weather means well and we march out of the city in pleasant temperatures. After some time and an easy climb, we have a sublime view of the alpine town.

Again and again we find nice paths off the road and highway, and after 3 hours we arrive in Schönberg.

Angelika is a perfect hostess. With a good snack we have a great time and strengthen ourselves for the next day.

16.04.2016

2nd day from Brenner to Gossensaß, Sterzing to Stilfes – 24 km

Max invites us to a good breakfast at the Brenner Pass before we start today’s route in strong wind. The route to Gossensaß passes a former old railroad line, which is now a well-maintained bike path. The wind has dropped and we march in pleasant temperature to Sterzing. A nice waitress in Sterzing Old Town serves us good pasta with asparagus and ham. Well fortified, we walk the last stage to Stilfes and get the pilgrim’s stamp from the local priest. 

Angelika’s friend Helene invites us to Mauls for dinner and overnight.

A good pilgrimage day ends with a South Tyrolean snack and red wine.

17.04.2016

Day 3 Stilfes – Mittenwald – Franzensfeste – Neustift Monastery – 23 km

We are still in the early days. Our shoulders are not yet used to carrying the backpack and report. This does not dampen our good mood and we mosey merrily on under pleasant temperatures and overcast skies. Because our legs and feet are fine.

We stop for lunch in Franzensfeste at the edge of the cycle path. After a quarter of an hour’s walk we see the imposing fortress, built in 1833 by Emperor Franz 1, who wanted to use it to block the way to the north. However, the fortress was never involved in warlike conflicts. 

The weather changes and with a light shower we arrive at the monastery of Neustift, located 3.5 km from Brixen, The Augustinian canons’ monastery was built in 1142, and is the largest monastery complex in Tyrol.

Father Karl gives us the stamp in the pilgrim’s passport and a chocolate Easter bunny as a snack.

18.04.2016

Day 4 Neustift Monastery – Bressanone – Chiusa – Kollmann – 23.5 km

We start with drizzle at 8:30 and test the good ponchos of Ursula, which were very well chosen. Thank you and best regards.

Once in Bressanone, we visit the cathedral, attend the service that is taking place and receive the pilgrim’s stamp.

The weather is getting better and we are marching along the Eisack river in the direction of Klausen. The sun comes out and we enjoy a rest along the cycle path, listening to the flow of the Eisack and the chirping of birds. The route continues towards Waidbruck and Kollmann, past blossoming apple orchards with warm temperatures.

We will spend the night in Friedburg Castle today. We receive a friendly welcome and are shown lovingly restored castle rooms in which emperors and kings have already stayed. Friedburg Castle was built by Siegmund the Coin Rich and expanded by Emperor Maximilian, and was an important resting and overnight stop for the nobles who were on their way to Rome for the imperial coronation. How princely we will sleep today.

19.04.2016

Day 5 Kollmann – Atzwang – Blumau – Kardaun – Bolzano – 22 km

A thunderstorm the night before made the air fresh and cool. We start with brisk steps on the bike path to Atzwang and further to Blumau. In the early morning there are hardly any cyclists on the road and we have the path to ourselves. While at home a cold front yesterday brought snowfall down to low elevations, here we enjoy spring and around noon warm sunshine up to 22 degrees.

We make good progress and sit comfortably with our lunch snack under a tree on a bench at the end of Blumau.

On the way on suddenly a blockage of the cycle path. We have no choice but to continue on the main road. There is a lot of traffic and we walk briskly in single file in the hope that the drivers will pay attention to us.

Everything goes well and we can enjoy the sun and rest on the terrace in Bolzano opposite the cathedral at 15:00.

A dear colleague from South Tyrol has arranged rooms for us in Girlan, picks us up and we end the day with a joint dinner.

20.04.2016

Day 6 Girlan – Kaltern – Kalterersee – Tramin – 19.5 km

The landlord of the Hotel Waldhof shows us a beautiful hiking trail to the Kalterersee. The cool air in the morning, the beautiful soft forest path, the mountains in the background and spring-like birdsong, let us march happily on.

We first reach the small Montiggler Lake and soon the big one. The water glistens in the sun and we realize how beautiful our world is.

We continue through one of the most famous excursion destinations in South Tyrol, the Spring Valley. Here you can admire thousands and thousands of flowers in the spring blooming season.

1.5 hours later, the Kalterer See lake peeps out from behind the trees. There we have lunch, meet some cyclists and hikers, and are of course asked where we want to go.

Again and again we stop, admire this beautiful spot and walk between countless vineyards to  Tramin, where we will spend the night today.

21.04.2016

Day 7 Tramin – Rungg – Kurtatsch – Margreid – Kurtinig – Salurner Klause – Cadino – 19,5 km

The clouds clear and a sunny day with pleasant temperatures accompanies us.

In no time we are in Rungg, we see vines everywhere and from Kurtatsch we continue on the wine trail. This 1.5 km long path through enclosed vineyards, goes up and down in waves and lets you look again and again at the wide valley floor with its houses, churches and chapels. 

In small clay amphorae you can sniff the typical scents of the wines, We usually do not guess, and find that we would not be good winemakers, but like to drink a glass of good wine in the evening.

After Kurtinig we go on to the Salurner Klause, It is border area between South Tyrol and Trentino, and is traditionally considered German-Italian language border.

So for us, too, it’s time to unpack the Italian we’ve learned, and we’ll see what has stuck from Elena’s Italian lessons.

22.04.2016

Day 8 Cadino – Trento – 0 km

Today’s route we went by cab.

Unfortunately Angelika hurt her foot yesterday more than we thought. So our first trip today was to the hospital to check out what it looked like.

The friendly and attentive cab driver suggested that we go to the hospital in Cles, as fast and good treatment is assured there. That was also true. 2 hours later, it was confirmed that there was a fracture on the outer foot below the ankle and a cast was needed.

We then drove to Trento, checked into the Hotel Venezia. The hotel is across from the Duomo, the sun is shining, the square is full of people.

We slowly let our terror subside, sit down in a café on the square, and recover over lunch.

During the subsequent visit to the cathedral, we are already in a more positive mood and Angelika unpacks her camera again.

23.04.2016

Day 9 Trento – Cimirlo Pass – Roncogno – Lake Caldonazzo – Tenna – Lake Levico  – 25 km

After the failure of Angelika Nadjne and I go on. For the next 3 days we got reinforcements. Christine and Petra got the desire to hike and accompany us.

The weather forecast predicted rain, but we arrived dry and in one piece in Levico Terme at the Hotel Cristallo with overcast skies and pleasant temperatures.

We leave the Adige Valley with Trento and climb 540 m up to the Cimirlo Pass, which is 733 m high. There a cool breeze blows and lets us move on quickly.

The path is alternating continues to Roncogno until Lake Caldonazzo, where we stop for lunch. We enjoy the calm and quiet lake, which lies clear in front of us, and belongs to the ducks and swans until the beginning of the summer season. 

We meet the first pilgrims today; a man from Germany and two women from Graz. 

Finally, we will walk along the shore of Lake Levico to end the day.

24.04.2016

Day 10 – Lake Levico – Selva – Borgo Valsugana – Castelnuovo – 20 km

The weather means it well with us again today, the night before it rained, and we start under cloudy skies with cool temperatures, but without rain.

Before we set our steps, we say goodbye to Angelika and Reingard, who are going home. It is a temporary farewell, knowing that we will meet again in Assisi.

The four of us will continue our hike through the beautiful Valsugana Valley along the Brenta River to Selva and on to Borgo Valsugana. In the background  we see snow-covered mountains, walk past small villages with churches and now and then proudly rises an old castle or remains of it.

Today’s accommodation is worth mentioning. We have booked Bed&Breakfast with Annalisa in house De Monte in Valsugana. The landlords welcome us warmly, the new rooms are two-story lovingly furnished in light wood. We chat in broken Italian and German and are served dinner and wine.

We end the day with a round of Yahtzee.

25.04.2016

Day 11 – Castelnuovo – Primolano – Forte Tombion – 28 km

Today we have made the longest stage so far, In the morning the thermometer shows 4 degrees. We are happy that the sun comes out during breakfast.

After a warm farewell from Annalisa, we set off briskly, walking many kilometers along the bike path in beautiful countryside. The air is clear, the mountains look washed, and the river shines like silver in the sun’s rays.

At a rest stop for lunch we meet a couple from Götzis who also want to make the pilgrimage to Rome. We walk a bit together, then say goodbye and wish a good journey until the next meeting.

Before reaching the gateway to the Po Valley, namely tomorrow, when we get to Bassano the Grappa, we continue walking along the river on the bike path in a large gorge. 

In the afternoon we reach our Albergo Forte Tombion, where we will spend the night today.

26.04.2016

Day 12 – Forte Tombion – Bassano del Grappa – 26 km

The early start this morning was a good decision. We arrived in Bassano without rain, and behind us we could see dark rain clouds all day.

Today’s stage ran all day along the course of the Brenta River, passing small villages, alternating with paths along the banks. Again and again we stop, look at trees, bushes and flowers in full bloom and perceive their scents. It is wonderful to walk in spring. Several wild geese rest on the shore, and are not disturbed as we pass.

The last hour to Bassano we walk on the Alta Via del Tabacco  along the river directly towards the Ponte Vecchio.

Our accommodation today is a youth hostel, where we were warmly welcomed.

But now we go  for a glass of prosecco and drink to all those who stayed at home.

27.04.2016

13. day – Bassano del Grappa – Martino di Lipari – 23 km

We leave Bassano del Grappa and as the author of our pilgrimage guide, Ferdinand Treml describes in it, the Po Valley spreads out before us.

The next 9 stages we do not go any altitude meters and pass villages and towns of the Po Valley. Today’s tour takes us to Martino di Lipari. A rain shower makes us unpack the poncho after many unused days. But it will soon be over and we had wonderful hiking weather.

For lunch we stop in a bar, and are served friendly, The woman tells us that last year a student from Innsbruck with the donkey on the way to Rome stopped at her.

For our onward journey she gives us three packs of cookies. Again and again we are surprised by nice, friendly encounters and receive congratulations for the further way.

Visiting churches is important to us and we light candles for all who need light.

28.04.2016

Day 14 – San Martino di Lupari – Fratte – Camposampiero – Campodarsego – 24 km

We start at 4 degrees in the morning and walk briskly so that we get warm, Our equipment is very well chosen and we put on wind and rain jacket. In the morning the road stretches on side roads and we are glad that there are not too many cars.

Just before Camposampiere we find the beautiful old church of San Massimo.

Piro, a friendly Italian, unlocks us, explains some of the history. We understand something, not much, but we have already made the experience that we must learn to understand the essentials, and not everything that is extensively spoken and explained. We get a nice stamp in Latin in our pilgrim passport.

In Camposampiero the 1st Pilgrim’s Way ends and the Way of St. Anthony begins.

We hike still further, now along the bike path to the next village, where we spend the night.

Again and again we stop and are surprised by the beautiful landscape in the Po Valley.