Pilgrimage Innsbruck-Rome Part 2

11.05.2016

Day 13 – Brisighella – Modigliana – 16 km

With today’s short stage we end the Antonius Way. Tomorrow we continue to Marzanella and do not make the detour via Dovadola. Therefore, tomorrow  we will begin the third section of our pilgrimage to Rome, the Francis Way/il cammino di Assisi. 

We are looking forward to it and what is especially nice is that we do not have St. Francis in the flesh at our side, but we do have a strong man. Heimo arrives today and accompanies us to Assisi.

Today’s hike took us up and down another 500 meters in altitude. During the night it had rained again. Clouds of mist crept over the trees, a mystical atmosphere. And in all this the two pilgrims who set step by step towards Modigliana, today’s destination.

The afternoon is dedicated to rest. We pass a large supermarket and buy strawberries. Mmmh, how delightful!

10.05.2016

Day 12 – Tossignano – Borgo Rivola – Sintria Valley – Brisighella – 30.5 km

Today we have completed a royal stage, We have hiked for the first time over 30 kilometers. In addition 1090 meters of altitude up and 1070 meters of altitude down. 37,900 steps we walked according to Nadine’s records.

The weather was still good with us today. It had rained during the night. As we climbed through the forest, we felt the humidity and the forest steamed like a tropical jungle. We sweated along.

The paths alternate. We hike in the forest, through olive and vineyards, on paths and gravel roads. Always surrounded by a wonderful, blooming and lush natural landscape.

At the end we have a lovely trail to Brisighella, but in the rain it turns into a clay slide.

At the end of the day we are happy to have a nice room in the newly renovated Hotel La Rocca.

By the way, for those who are interested: Today we have half time of our pilgrimage Innsbruck – Rome. We will celebrate this with a glass of wine.

09.05.2016

Day 11 – San Martino – Valsellustra – Croara – Tossignano – 24.5 km

Today we had an experience that most likely all pilgrims have at some point. We hiked in the wrong valley direction in Valsellustra. Both of us felt that it was the right thing to do. After a good 2 km it seemed strange to us and we checked the direction with our hiking map and the GPS. So today we hiked an extra hour.

Today the path went up to the ridge twice in this karst landscape. We march along there; one side fertile and agricultural until up. On the other side it goes down steeply.

In any case, the beautiful trail to Borgo Tossignano can be walked only in dry weather. When it rains, the clay paths turn into dangerous slides in no time. The sky was overcast, but there was no major rain in sight and we could walk this beautiful variant.

A varied day draws to a close and we are grateful to have arrived safe and sound.

08.05.2016

Day 10 – Settefonti – Liano – San Martino – 21.5 km

The morning starts with a good breakfast this Sunday. With this photo we wish all the best for Mother’s Day to the moms at home.

We say goodbye to Franziska and make our way up and down the rolling, fertile hills. For a while we walk along a ridge with great views all around. Passing farmsteads, wineries we continue in fine weather. 

At noon we see an osteria, which we take advantage of and treat ourselves to a good meal, in the midst of Italian families. We stay overnight in a small village and do not know if there is still a restaurant there.

In the afternoon clouds are gathering. The farmers bring in their hay and we hike on. At every house we pass, we are greeted with dogs barking. Thank goodness they are almost always locked up. But the dog issue has been with us from the beginning, and we are alert but getting used to it.

Gratefully we walk the routes of our pilgrim guide by Ferdinand Treml. Otherwise, we would have no chance to find the paths.

We arrived well again today.

07.05.2016

Day 9 – Bologna – San Lazzaro – Parco dei Gessi Bolognesi – Settefonti – 21 km

Yesterday we still enjoyed Bologna in the hustle and bustle with beautiful weather. This morning we walk in traffic for a good hour until we turn our backs on the big city.

We look forward to nature, and we get it in abundance today. After San Lazzaro a park awaits us, which we like to walk through. At the end we cross  on a bridge the river Idice, and follow a hiking trail. On the way we have a nice conversation with a rider who also plans to make a pilgrimage to Rome one day.

But before we get to the vineyards following the path, once again, as so often, we have to pass 800 m of busy road. 

Since Bassano del Grappa we have not met any pilgrims. Today in the vineyards we meet Franziska from Graz, whom we last saw at Lake Levico. A short time later we catch up with a pilgrim from the Czech Republic. He started today in Bologna and also wants to go to Rome.

We stay again in an agriturismo on a hill in Settefonti with a wonderful view of the foothills of the Apennines.

06.05.2016

Day 8 – Castel Maggiore – Bologna – 13 km

Today’s short stage takes us to the oldest city in Europe, Bologna. We reach the university city with 380,000 inhabitants, 80,000 of them students, at noon.

The path today was full of contrasts. After leaving Castel Maggiore on roads and several traffic circles, we come to a beautiful path that runs along a canal for 6 km.

The old path is idyllic by the water and we enjoy walking along, knowing that many people have already followed this path.

Our accommodation today is a bed and breakfast right in the center. From a small terrace on the 3rd floor we look at an old church,

We have time to devote the rest of the day to the city, and visit the Basilica of St. Patronius, where we also receive our pilgrim stamp.

A visit to the Basilica of San Domenico is also a must. Here is the tomb of St. Domenikus, who died in 1221.

We enjoy the city, as we will not encounter another large city until Assisi.

05.05.2016

Day 7 – Ponticelli – Bentivoglio – Funo – Castel Maggiore – 24 km

We start again with a sunny, partly cloudy day. Ideal for hiking.

The first kilometers lead us again on side roads, past idyllic fish ponds with many water birds. We do not take the time to observe. We want to go further. The next hour we can enjoy pure nature. We walk through a natural park of former rice fields.

In Bentivoglio it is lunchtime and we are hungry. How fitting that we pass a restaurant. The Italian, sweet breakfast does not last long and we enjoy pasta.

Afterwards it goes on quietly on small roads. The last 2 kilometers to Funo we walk on a busy road. The trucks hiss. Passing us, honking sometimes, and actually there is no place for pedestrians here. But the yellow Antonius signpost is even placed above the traffic signs at major intersections.

We arrived safely at our hotel and are looking forward to a short stage to Bologna tomorrow.

04.05.2016

Day 6 – Ferrara – San Martino – Gallo – Malalbergo – Agriturismo Al Navile – 26 km

“Heit wors a zache Partie!”

We leave wonderful Ferrara and are on back roads for the next 24 km, mostly straight and without sidewalks. Drivers are not slowing down and so you have to pay attention.

Sparse are the green strips at the edges of fields, which give our feet some rest from the hard asphalt. In the towns we are surprised by newly built sidewalks and bike paths.

In short, today’s stage has taken us a little further along the road. But as in life, there are also these paths to follow. This did not dampen our spirits. The sun is shining, people are friendly and security ensure the carabinerie.

The last half hour spoils us with a lovely path along a small canal. Our accommodation today awaits us with a well-kept garden and beautiful house. Farm vacations in Italy.

03.05.2016

Day 5 – Polesella – Francolino – Ferrara – 25 km

On today’s stage we have two highlights. First, after a few kilometers we come to the longest river in Italy, the Po. On the other hand, this day ends in Ferrara, which is a city of art and UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We cross the 650 km long river over a bridge, the cars zoom past us, and we realize how decelerated we are after all. Again and again we are surprised how far we can go on foot in one day.

We then follow the dam along the Po for 13 kilometers, always straight ahead in a blooming, green landscape. Glad to be able to avoid the cars, numerous cyclists pass us. Some greet us with a salute and wish us Bon Cammino.

From Franciolino the cycle path continues towards Ferrara and we come directly to the remains of the ancient city walls. The city is charming and here you could linger.

But we want to go on and in three days we will reach the next city, Bologna.

02.05.2016

Day 4 – Boara Pisani – Rovigo – Sant Apollinare – Bosaro 26.5 km

The Po Valley surprises us again today with many different paths and sections. We keep stopping, looking at the fertile meadows, fields and forests. This lush green cannot be captured on camera.

We start 300 m on a busy main road in the rain and are glad to soon change to a quieter side road. Soon we reach  a river and are happy to see the Adige again on the bridge below us. After all, it has already accompanied us from Salurn to Trento.

Bike paths alternate with straight, quiet roads. After 2 hours the rain stops and we are happy. The rest of the day remains dry.

Lunch rest at a canal; only one duck is watching us.

We do not stay in Bosaro but go 5 km further and spend the night on a farm. We sit in the well-kept garden and every now and then the sun blinks out.

A good day slowly winds down.

01.05.2016

Day 3 – Monselice – Schiavonia – Sant Elena – Stanghella – Boara Pirsani – 25 km

After the service yesterday evening, we get another monastic dinner and hear already in the night that it has begun to rain. 

Today is our first bad weather day. We leave at 8 a.m. after having an Italian breakfast in a bar.

In the first 2 hours we trudge bravely through the wet paths, while more and more water is added from above. Wind is coming up. The rainwear protects us. Nevertheless, we soon have wet feet.

Therefore, after 10 km we strengthen ourselves with hot chocolate and sweets, and warm ourselves in the dry.

Today’s stage is no longer straight as yesterday. We zigzag through the villages, on back roads and country lanes. Only the main roads run directly.

Towards afternoon the rain subsides and we continue dry. The wind cools us down and we freeze. We decide to drive the last kilometers to the hotel, but getting a cab is not possible. As so often happens in pilgrimage, help comes. This time by a friendly Italian woman who drives us to the hotel, Grazie Signora! That was good for us.

30.04.2016

Day 2 Padua – Battaglia Terme – Monselice – 24 km

We leave Padua in sunshine and it promises to be a warm day. This is also confirmed. We are experiencing 25 degrees for the first time today.

After passing through the last foothills of the city, today’s stage is simple and clear. We hike 20 km straight along a river dam. We walk engrossed and Nadine learns Italian along the way.

Suddenly a small car stops. Two carabineri stop and want to know where we are going. We look like pilgrims because they don’t do ID checks. They say brave, brave, wish us a good journey and leave us to go on our way again.

We reach the town sign of Monselice, continue to the village with the church of Santa Giustina and other 7 chapels.

 In the Convento San Giacomo, a Franciscan monastery, we spend the night today. There we will go on blessed tomorrow.

29.04.2016

Day 1 – Campodarsego – Padua – 15 km

For us it is the 15th day of pilgrimage, but the first day on the Antonius Way.

We split the route from Bassano Del Grappa to Padua over 3 days. This has the advantage that today at noon we were already in Padua, and we have half a day for the pilgrimage city.

We went out in beautiful weather and it lasted all day. The sun already has power, the wind is still cool.

The path is well marked with the signs of the Antoniusweg. We did not need our map with GPS today.

Padua welcomes us already in the suburb of Arcello. We continue to the city center to our Albergo.

The old episcopal and university city is known worldwide as the city of St. Anthony. The great basilica is visited by numerous people every day. Also today we meet many pilgrims. We sit in the pew, and are impressed by the magnificent building, with its columns, frescoes, paintings and sculptures. Devoutly we linger and pray for all.