The Way of St. James 4th stage

31.08.2013

Einsiedeln – Brunnen 26 km, 1,500 meters altitude difference

Who has the tightest calves and why we are smarter today.

Last year we finished our Jacob’s Week in Einsiedeln in pouring rain. For this reason, we will meet at 8:30 a.m. in front of the large, baroque pilgrimage church, which shines in its newly renovated splendor. We hike the first 9 km on the plain in good spirits and with a lot of verve and get into a gehrythm, since we have to overcome the highest elevation of the Swiss Way of St. James on the very first day. After a short break to drink, pilgrims of St. James pass us again and again with a friendly greeting.
The ascent to Haggenegg, 1414 meters in altitude, makes us sweat profusely. At the following lunch in the alpine inn we quench our thirst with a Panache and are supplied with Rösti by the friendly landlady. Heimo reserves rooms for us at the Gasthof Rosengarten in Brunnen, and we hike relaxed downhill towards Schwyz, passing a large monastery.
The path in the valley passes idyllic farms, small chapels, including a toothache chapel. According to legend, the peasants prayed there when they had a toothache, and the unpleasant torment was cured.
The weather is hot, windless and we work up another good sweat. Passing the monastery of Ingenbohl, we are already looking at the houses of Brunnen. Glad to have arrived soon, we meet a youth group who have decided to sleep on straw. This is offered in Switzerland.
A small path lets us go downhill the last meters, passing panels with sayings.
One to end this fulfilling first day:
Wishes are the harbingers of our abilities. Quote: Goethe

Author: Brigitte Wallner

01.09.2013

Route Jakobsweg Switzerland 2nd day: Brunnen-Beckenried-Stans

27 km, 900 meters of altitude.

Eichhof lager in a 58cl bottle and a Suur Moscht for lunch.

But before we can enjoy this on the terrace of the Rössli restaurant on Lake Lucerne, we have a 3.5 hour hike ahead of us.
The sky is cloudy when we say goodbye to the host in Brunnen and go to the departure point of the crossing ship. We meet 20 other pilgrims of St. James, all waiting for the friendly captain to let us off after 10 minutes of travel in Treib, where the Via Jacob continues.
The trail begins ascending across lush, green meadows, passing well-kept farms with lots of floral decorations and large gardens. 400 meters of altitude let our sweat production come up to speed. Gratefully we take the first sips from the water bottle. Continuing uphill, the forest welcomes us and then a high trail in the rocks. The view of the lake, the houses, some of which are built directly on the water, and the surrounding mountains, compensates for the effort. After the good lunch we wished for a deck chair for a short nap and this did not come true, we consoled ourselves with a sip of energy from Günther’s hip flask and marched on to Buochs. We were in dire need of refreshment. The next hour was spent walking on the asphalt. This has been hard on our feet.
The last stage to Stans to the Hotel Engel, today’s accommodation, has again conjured up a beautiful path over meadows, as we always experience in Switzerland.
The tight calves have been fit again today.

Author: Brigitte Wallner

02.09.2013

Route Jakobsweg Switzerland 3rd day: Stans-Flueli-Sachseln 22km 700 meters altitude difference

Serving daughter and toast and why the Swiss must be very religious.

Strengthened after a simple breakfast we set our first steps in the cool morning. The weather promises a sunny day with summer temperatures. The path makes it easy for us to walk. Meadow and forest paths alternate, passing farms with views of the mountains Stanshorn, Pilatus and the Rigi.
The Way of St. James through Switzerland is a beautiful stage whose scenery is hard to beat. After 1,5h we reach St. Jacob, visit the church in which there is a small, lovely statue of St. James. James stands. Pilgrims are treated to apples, granola bars in addition in the small picturesque church.
On today’s route we don’t have a stop for lunch, but what a surprise, a farmer’s wife has set up a self-service pilgrim’s shop. We can enjoy hot soup, tea, coffee, cold drinks, as well as sweets. A good idea.
On the way we pass a large monastery, Bethany, talk with a friendly Dominican, pass a little later 2 chapels in Ranft. This site tells about the St. Nicholas of Flue, who lived here in a hermitage in communion with God.
Arrived in Sachseln we head again for a Gasthof Engel and drink to health and a long life. Today’s route showed us many chapels, small and large, and numerous churches, all restored and in beautiful condition,

Author: Brigitte Wallner

03.09.2013

Way of St. James 4th stage Sachseln -Brienz 29 km 1,100 meters altitude difference

King stage : reward – dinner on the lakeside terrace at Hotel Sternen

Since we have a long tour ahead of us, we leave today already at 8.15 am in bright weather. The adjacent mountains seem much closer than usual. We only experience this in the beginning of autumn. The temperature is cool and we move forward at a fast pace, knowing that the sun is getting hotter by the hour. After 3 hours we reach Lungern with the turquoise blue Lungerersee.
Since the ascent to the Brünig Pass lies ahead of us, we don’t allow ourselves any loitering but, after a drink break, climb briskly ahead to the pass, which is 1,007 m high.
The trail goes uphill into the forest. Gratefully we walk in the shade of the trees. The clock already shows 1 p.m., and hunger and thirst announce themselves. But we walk another half hour to the top of the pass and we motivate each other in the now hot sun.
The Moscht and the Rösti tasted especially good. It is still 3 hours to our final destination. The path goes up and down until we reach the bottom of the valley again. On the last 3 km the soles of the feet burn and fatigue makes itself felt. Lake Brienz invites us to swim, but the fresh temperature prevents us from swimming. Heimo, however, dares to jump into the cool water at what feels like 19 degrees.
Dinner by the lake quickly makes us forget the exertions of the day. The friendly serving daughter brings good fish, a very good Thai curry and a Pflümli to finish.

Author: Brigitte Wallner

04.09.2013

Way of St. James 5th stage 03.09.2013 Brienz – Interlaken 22 km 1,000 meters altitude difference

The temperatures today like on the way to Santiago
Highlight – View of the Jungfrau 4.158m, Mönch 4.099 m, Eiger 3.970 m

Bright sunshine in the early morning. We have breakfast on the hotel terrace and enjoy the view of the lake once again. The trail starts right away with an ascent to 800 m. The hiking shirt washed last night is sweated wet in an hour. But it does us good. We march briskly in the forest towards Oberried and talk about books and movies.
After a small lunch with lots of water, a lakeside path leads us along Lake Brienz to the end, which continues as a river to Interlaken. The 2 church towers are in sight, the first hotels radiate sophisticated flair. Heimo has reserved rooms at the Waldhotel Unspunnen.
We walk for another 1 hour until we reach our destination. An old hotel welcomes us on the highway and unfortunately today with rest day. We are kindly welcomed by an Italian staff and can have dinner in a brewery in the neighborhood.
We send warm greetings to all at home!

Author: Brigitte Wallner

05.09.2013

Way of St. James. Stage 6 05.09.2013 Interlaken – Merligen – Oberhofen 24 km 500 meters altitude difference

A friendly hotel manager and a serving daughter in hippie look:

We start our tour today at 9:00 am in bright sunshine. The day promises to be hot again. The clear view of the mountains and the cloudless sky let us move ahead briskly. From our accommodation we pass the town and continue along the river towards Lake Thun. The path goes uphill into the forest and down again. This interplay allows us sun and shadow, which we gratefully accept.
At the Beatus Caves we rest, and have a wonderful view of the lake. We enjoy a well-deserved lunch on a lakeside terrace in Merligen, glad for the rest in the shade. The following 2 hours let us sweat once again. We did not think that the summer would show itself again with such clarity.
Panache and beer taste all the better at today’s destination in Oberhofen. We sit for our last dinner directly on the lakeside terrace of the Parkhotel and experience a balmy summer evening.

Author: Brigitte Wallner

06.09.2013

Stage 7: Oberhofen – Thun train station 6 km

Last day with joy and some melancholy
155 km on the road together.

After a good breakfast, we leave our last accommodation under cloudy skies, and walk the last kilometers to Thun train station, where our Jacob’s group will separate.
A little drizzle are the only raindrops we experienced during the whole week. After a good hour we catch sight of Thun Castle, the church and cross the river Aare over an old wooden bridge into the city.
We look back on a fulfilling week and are grateful that we made it through the tour in one piece and in good shape. We say goodbye to Albert, who has his birthday today, with a bottle of “Alte Zwatschga” as a souvenir. He goes to Landeck. Günther has his train to Frankfurt half an hour later.
We take the train in the late afternoon to Zurich airport and fly back to Salzburg. The Way of St. James through Switzerland is scenically beautiful, varied, mountains and lakes, many picturesque old farmhouses with lush floral decorations, large farm gardens;
we have experienced many friendly people; the accommodations are simple and expensive; the food was mostly good, sometimes very good.
Resumee: High recreational value – Recommended for imitation!

Author: Brigitte Wallner